Sam Bradley braves the chilly night to compete with France’s Lumières de la Muzelle nighttime trail run.
I’m running along a snowy mountain trail, the sunset sky filled with a multitude of orangey-pink hues. Fairytale mountain peaks tower over me, all blanketed in winter wonderland white. The scenery is indescribably beautiful, and I once again pinch myself to check this is real.
I’m in Les 2 Alpes, a small village high up in the French Alps, taking part in the annual Lumières de la Muzelle (Lights of Muzelle) trail run. As darkness falls we barely need our headtorches, the route lit up by countless stars above and the glittering lights nestled in the valley below. I’m aware not many people get to enjoy being out on a mountain in the snow at night, making this experience all the more special.
It’s not all butterflies and rainbows. It’s bitingly cold (the mercury hitting -9 degrees Celsius) and my water bottle froze over a while ago. All of the race options (the 42km full marathon, 21km half or the 10km fun run) are tough, with the route including strenuous hills and a snow laden (and sometimes icy) path. The descents are tough on the knees, while the uphills seem to be tough on just about every muscle. It’s a battle of wills, but eventually I cross the finish line, relieved and elated to have completed my toughest run to date.
Most tourists to this picturesque alpine village visit for snow sports rather than trail running. Les 2 Alpes is nicknamed the ‘Home of Ride,’ and it’s an apt description. Sitting at 2,100m means it’s guaranteed good ski conditions and a long season, with the lift reaching all the way to the glacier at 3,400m and making skiing possible even in mid-Summer.
Les2Alpes covers a large ski area of roughly 200km of marked runs, and there’s something to suit everyone. Beginners and families will appreciate the plentiful green and blue runs, as well as the amazing views out over the valley. Les 2 Alpes is often called “the upside down ski resort” due to the easier slopes being at the top of the mountain. Pros flock to the resort for the 2,300m of vertical drop (all without using a ski lift) as well as an epic snowpark and many off-piste areas. An impressive 3S gondola system is currently under construction (due end of 2024) which will be able to transport 3,000 skiers per hour, reaching the glacier in just 17 minutes.
It’s not just the ski slopes that have given the village its reputation for adventure and adrenaline. In the summer Les 2 Alpes hosts a daring mountain bike race known as the Mountain of Hell, which starts on the glacier and races down a single track over ice, rocks and dirt, before passing through the village and across the finish line. It takes the winners less than 30 minutes to complete the 25 km course, which includes a hair raising 2,00 metres of descent.
Paragliding (and in winter, ski paragliding) is also popular in this area, while the nearby Ecrins National Park has many superb hiking and trail running routes in the summer. In winter children can also enjoy the skating rink, a toboggan area, horse drawn sleigh rides and snowshoe sessions, to name just a few additional attractions.
Les 2 Alpes draws its name from the two mountain pastures on either side of it, and was originally used by families from the nearby villages as a summer grazing spot for cattle. The first Winter Olympics held in nearby Chamonix in 1924 ignited a passion for snow sports, leading to the area slowly being developed over the next few decades into a ski destination. Now home to 2,000 permanent residents, it still maintains its quaint alpine character, complete with plenty of old-style wooden chalets and walkable streets.
After a tiring day on the slopes there are plenty of ways to relax and unwind. The village’s eighty restaurants are a melting pot for the local French, Italian and Swiss influences, many serving traditional favourites such as galette (buckwheat flour pancake), fondue, pizza and raclette. The accommodation options are also plentiful and luxurious (none more so than the delightfully cosy Chalet Mounier) while a short cable car leads to Venosc in the valley below, a historic village well worth exploring. In addition Les 2 Alpes also offers many spas and saunas, which I use to full advantage to ease my aching muscles on the morning after the run. It’s a mistake to get too comfortable though, as the Home of Ride will soon have you back on your feet and enjoying the great outdoors.