Few cities in Asia have maintained the intimate balance between antiquity and modernity quite like Seoul. The Korean capital is a bustling metropolis where ancient temples and regal palaces are as at home as the towering skyscrapers, and the contrast makes any visit a journey for the senses.
9 am
Check-in at the new Four Points by Sheraton, located within walking distance of the bright lights of Myeongdong, one of Seoul’s best-loved retail and commercial districts. The hotel offers easy access to Seoul’s rich culture, authentic food, and beverage offerings and is easily connected to the rest of the city, Incheon International Airport. Be sure to leave time for a visit to the Lounge, which features a best brews program that showcases locally-produced beers.
10 am
Get your first taste of Korean culture in early with the changing of the guards at the stunning Gyeongbokgung Palace, a royal fortress located in the city’s north. Constructed in 1395 and abandoned for almost three centuries after a fire, the palace was lovingly reconstructed in 1867. It remains the largest of the five Grand Palaces built by the Joseon Dynasty, despite having sustained severe damage in bombing raids by the Japanese. Soldiers reenact the traditional changing of the guard and gate opening ceremonies each hour, resplendent in their brightly-colored era uniforms.
11.30 am
From the palace make your way to another of the capital’s landmarks, the Namdaemun or Gate of Exalted Ceremonies, a true symbol of Seoul that was recently reopened after an extensive renovation. Located between Seoul Station and Seoul City Plaza, the gate is as much an icon as it is a literal gate into the heart of the city, including the 24-hour Namdaemun Market, located next door. The markets are the largest in Korea and were founded in 1414, with renovations throughout their long history. Pedestrian-friendly, the markets are a great spot to pick up bargains from Seoul’s grassroots fashion scene and to tantalize your taste buds before lunch, with a host of stalls serving up fluffy pancakes, sweet barbequed squid, and cold naengmyun noodles.
12.30 pm
Time for something a little more substantial. Jump in a cab and head to Tosokchon (5 Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu), a restaurant in Jongno-gu that specializes in samgyetang, whole spring chickens stuffed with rice, chestnuts, and ginseng and then served in soup. You won’t have any language troubles here as the menu features only black chicken soup – an acquired taste – or white chicken soup. Most popular in summer, samgyetang is a great dish for travelers exploring the city on two feet.
2 pm
Walk off your meal through Marronnier Park, once the campus of Seoul National University and now home to one of the city’s most beautiful green belts, as well as countless theaters and performing arts spaces in the neighboring streets. Once you’ve traversed the park, stop in for a coffee at one of the many eclectic cafes and bars in the surrounding streets, each of with boasts its own flair and feel, and remain popular with the university set.
4 pm
Art lovers can continue on through nearby Insadong, the city’s arts hub. A favorite with visitors and locals alike, Insadong is a lively neighborhood that combines Seoul’s past and present, with boutiques, cafes, and galleries now housed in former merchant warehouses and government offices. Over 40 percent of Korea’s antique stores and art galleries can be found here, as well as a staggering 90 percent of the traditional stationery stores. Be sure to look out for posters and medals from North Korea, elegant calligraphy brushes, stunning ceramics, and even modern art. Insadong also boasts Tongmungwan, the oldest bookstore in the city, the acclaimed Kyung-in Art Gallery, Korea’s oldest tea house, and Jogyesa, an important Buddhist temple. More contemporary art and galleries can also be found in Samcheong-dong, an emerging neighborhood that’s also popular with ceramicists, potters, painters, and jewelry designers.
6.30 pm
You’ll want to book early and start early if you’re dining at Seoul sensation Siwhadam, a VVIP restaurant in the eclectic neighborhood of Itaewon. With the shortest set menu lasting three hours and 19 courses, this is as much a meal for the senses as it is for the palate, as artistic and tantalizing dishes are presented by owners grace Park and Chung Oh, who were determined to bring a new level of finesse and artistry to the table. Between courses be sure to examine the restaurant’s displays of funeral relics and ceramics from the United Shilla Dynasty.
10 pm
If you’re looking to paint the town red, head to All That Jazz, one of Seoul’s many upscale jazz enclaves. The venue supports local acts but also has many visiting greats from Europe and the US as well as Japan, and if you’re feeling peckish, they also have a great supper menu as well as superb classic cocktails.
10 am
Time for a touch of retail therapy in one of Seoul’s top shopping precincts. The COEX Mall has something for everyone, with a museum and aquarium, theaters and restaurants, duty-free boutiques, and a sprawling Hyundai Department Store. Pick up a map from the information desk when you arrive as it’s easy for the size of this mall to become overwhelming, and be sure to check out the many local Korean design labels off offer.
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