Malawi is making a comeback by creating the region’s newest safari parks and restoring its vast wildernesses.
With the big five back on its land, visiting Liwonde National Park is a must for safari lovers looking for an authentic wildlife experience.
“Just be careful of the hippos; they tend to walk past your door around sunset,” says manager of Mvuu Lodge Fiona Passoni as she shows my girlfriend Ines and I our accommodation. As surreal as Fiona’s comment is, we know she isn’t joking. “Mvuu” means hippopotamus in Chichewa, Malawi’s official language, and the lodge is aptly named. Groups of hippos wander around the Namagogoda Lagoon and on the banks of the Shire River in Liwonde National Park. As if on cue, a furious mother hippo clashes with a male who threatened her calf. The ferocity of these herbivores is concerning and yet captivating.
Mvuu and fellow Malawi safari retreat Kuthengo Camp offer two distinct accommodation styles set on the east side of the Shire River, and we stayed one night in each location. Kuthengo offers intimacy, having only five luxury tents with elegant contemporary interiors that are tucked away among the fever trees. In comparison, Mvuu feels more traditional, with its stone chalets and thatched roofs surrounded by wood decking and hammocks. Both places offer first-class game drives and bush walks, but the real revelation lies in their boat safaris.
“So much wildlife comes to the Shire to bathe or drink,” says Kuthengo manager Mike Wendel as we approach the camp’s tiny speedboat through sunlit foliage. Soon after, we’re bumping along the water as if we’re in an Indiana Jones adventure. Elephants dominate in numbers along the riverbank, some washing themselves with their trunks, while others, particularly younger bulls, enjoy playing in the shallow waters. However, on closer inspection, the unspoiled Shire River offers much more wildlife beauty – crocodiles with eyes half submerged in water, hippos lazing in the sun, and diverse species of birds, from colourful kingfishers to majestic fish eagles, creating a serene spectacle on the water.
This hasn’t always been the case. Liwonde faced a challenging past that threatened its diverse wildlife. In response, conservation organisation African Parks initiated anti-poaching efforts, implementing strategic interventions to safeguard the park’s fauna. Prince Harry, a passionate conservation advocate, played a crucial role by participating in conservation projects within Liwonde. Through collaborative efforts, poaching incidents were reduced, and the park saw improvements in biodiversity. The future of Liwonde National Park appears promising and the reintroduction of cheetahs, rhinos and lions, alongside improved community engagement and global support, all offer hope for a sustainable and thriving sanctuary. However, despite these efforts, Malawi is still under the radar as a tourist destination.
Roaming Liwonde is an absolute pleasure, especially when you have the guide and game jeep to yourself. Fewer distractions provide a deeper connection with our senses and surroundings. From the echoing cries of monkeys in the lofty trees to the resonant tones of elephants meandering through the bush, every moment becomes immersive. “We are all pulling together to create something better,” says our game and boat safari guide at Mvuu David Mkandawire with emotion in his voice. “Liwonde shows us the worst and best in human behaviour,” he adds, in reference to the park’s poaching past and the efforts made for a brighter future.
Our visit to Malawi made Ines and I feel less like tourists and more like guests as part of a special project unfolding. And in an era where many beautiful places suffer from over-tourism, opting for alternative travel choices can lead to the most fulfilling experiences.
For more Destination stories click here.